It was raining this morning, and the highlands where we wre yesterday were clouded over. We had a fairly slow day (needed, I think). In the morning we went to the anthropology museum where there is a really interesting exhibit about the Iceman, including the dude himself. He was found mummified in the mountains near here in 1991, and it has since been determined he was murdered in the mountains 4 to 5,000 years ago. Scientists are still working on details of his story and there is a lot that will never be known conclusively. No one knows if he was a trader, a shaman, or what kind of person he was. Lots of interesting conjecture based on his clothes and objects he carried. It is pretty much concluded that he died in a fight, but the details will never be known.
As I mentioned, this area, South Tyrolia is a mixture of Austrian and Italian cultures. Italy acquired it after WWI. The differences in architecture are very striking. The old district is on one side of the river, and looks very Austrian: slanting dark roofs over white houses, alcoves that form towers with weather vanes on top, etc. Lots of character and charm. Mussolini tried stressed Italian culture around the 1930s; there is a district that he built for Italian immigrants across the river. The buildings are block like and rather scary, with some interesting art. One wall carving shows Prometheus trying to stare down the eagle. All this reflects on Mussolinis fascism, of course, and not on the Italian people.
There are separatist movements active now. One faction wants the region to be autonomous in Italy; another wants South Tyrolia to be an independent country. We also saw a flier that talked about discrimination against Italians, and opposed the separatist movements. I do not have a clue how this will play out.
It was still raining in the afternoon. We did walk along the river, took a nice side trail where we say a castle and a beautiful waterfall. We leave tomorrow for Shellklingen Germany in the Swabian Alps. We will be there three days. I am not sure if we will have an internet connection. We will try to post, but will write from
the next town in four days if not before.
Ciao, Italia, it has been an adventure!
Friday, June 28, 2013
Thursday, June 27, 2013
Dolomites!
Today we took a goldala into the high country near Bolzano, and hiked towards the Dolomites, a range in the Italian Alps. ASTOUNDING!!! These are high mountains, sometimes rounded, other times craggy that reminded me of breakers that were suddenly changed from water into rock. Some of the mountains (which are about Sierra Nevada size) are tall and thin, like stone icicicles. There are glacial valleys and streams everywhere, and thicker forests than we have seen since leaving California. We will get pix up, I promise!!!
There was once an inland sea here, with sediments of quartz that were formed in volcanoes about 200 million years ago. The sediments were elevated when the African and Eurasian plates collided. The Alps are actually still rising, but erosion is wearing them down faster than they are being elevated. The Dolomites also contain
formations from ancient coral reefs. There are also strange formations called the Pyramids. They look like tall thin rocks with boulders on top. All the information we have seen is in Italian or German. As close as I can figure, basalt boulders settled on sandstone formations. Rain eroded the sandstone, but the boulders sheltered small areas, producing the pyramids. Strange but interesting if true.
There are marmots in the mountains, along with deer, badgers, weesles, and (apparently) wolves.
We heard many songbirds. Buttercups, red poppies, wild roses and many other flowers are everywhere. The rain may keep us out of the mountains tomorrow, but who knows?
This area belonged to Austria until WW!, when Italy aquired it. The architecture and culture are more Austrian than Italian for the most part. My background is German as well as Irish, so I am getting excited as we get closer to Germany. Today we hiked through a village where I rediscovered my passion for apple strudle. How could I ever forget apple strudle? More to come tomorrow.. guten tag!
There was once an inland sea here, with sediments of quartz that were formed in volcanoes about 200 million years ago. The sediments were elevated when the African and Eurasian plates collided. The Alps are actually still rising, but erosion is wearing them down faster than they are being elevated. The Dolomites also contain
formations from ancient coral reefs. There are also strange formations called the Pyramids. They look like tall thin rocks with boulders on top. All the information we have seen is in Italian or German. As close as I can figure, basalt boulders settled on sandstone formations. Rain eroded the sandstone, but the boulders sheltered small areas, producing the pyramids. Strange but interesting if true.
There are marmots in the mountains, along with deer, badgers, weesles, and (apparently) wolves.
We heard many songbirds. Buttercups, red poppies, wild roses and many other flowers are everywhere. The rain may keep us out of the mountains tomorrow, but who knows?
This area belonged to Austria until WW!, when Italy aquired it. The architecture and culture are more Austrian than Italian for the most part. My background is German as well as Irish, so I am getting excited as we get closer to Germany. Today we hiked through a village where I rediscovered my passion for apple strudle. How could I ever forget apple strudle? More to come tomorrow.. guten tag!
Wednesday, June 26, 2013
Wrapping up Venice... and ALPS!!!
Hi all, I can post more about Venice quickly. It is an incredibly beautiful city, beyond expectations--- old stone an concrete houses by the canals, arched bridges, labyrinth like alleys leading all over town. Getting somewhere is an adventure in itself. You never know what beauty or surprise you will stumble on.
St, Mark's Plaza, the main square, is astoundingly beautiful. The cathedral is based on the Eastern Orthadox plan for churches. Venice traded with the Byzantine Empire, and got the idea there. The Plaza is stampeded with tourists, and with expensive stores: expensive ties, shirts, purses, jewelry, masks, watches, the Disney store... BASTA!! I wandered through the cathedral quickly, and was totally impressed. Other than that, we stayed out of tourist areas as much as possible.
The backstreets of Venice are full of surprises. There are 60,000 people here (and more than a million tourists each year, most of them in the summer it appears). Still, this is more work a day Italy than you would think. We enjoyed walking through neighborhoods, and discovered co-op groceries, communal pharmacies, and plazas where people gather. Amazingly enough, we also stumbled on an office for the Italian Communist party. The corner of the building where this is housed includes an altar to Jesus with fresh flowers. I could speculate, but won't unless I get more information.
The Jewish ghetto is a fascinating place to visit. There are bakeries, kosher restaurants, places where you can get mennorahs and other religious/cultural objects. You can also see the area where people were gathered in 1943 and 44 to be sent to the German camps. There are some gutwrenching depictions of this. The ghetto was created in the 1400s, and Jews were not allowed to leave between dusk and morning. Napolean, of app people knocked the gates down when he occupied Rome. Today was a light hearted day, we watched a group of neighborhood kids throwing water balloons at each other.
We also stumbled on the Museum of Everything, a roving museum, based in London and Moscow that highlights work by unknown artists. The current exhibit features work by an Italian artist who was tricked into fighting on Franco's side in the Spanish Civil War. He came back with a condition we would now call PTSD, and became an artist, showing the things he experienced very creatively. His work resembles old cave paintings, but a close look reveals strong impacts.
The International Art Exhibit is going on, countries and artistic movements have pavillions displaying art from their cultures. The Mexican pavillion has a strange device that changes electromagnetic energy in the surroundings to music. Rumanian Pavillion offers a funny online quiz that tests how you respond to reality shows, artificial meat, computer games and other types of fake culture. The Chinese artist Ai Wei Wei designed some representation of his life, in prison with total round the clock surveillance. Our favorite exhibit was called ReEnvisioning Utopia, and it encouriages artists to try bring a sense od creativity and imagination to daily discourse and reality.
Very nice pizza last night, and yes, Italian wine is all its cracked up to be. Venice is beautiful, but there is a sadness from the crowds and their impact on the communities here. Also, there are many men, apparently middle Eastern imigrants who spend their days selling this weird silly putty mexture and glow sticks toy helicopters. How would somens life turn out that way?
So now we are in Bolzano, in the Alps. The train ride from Venice was astounding. We are surrounded by mountains. This area apparently part of Austria fir a while, but is now oart of Italy. I do not know the history but will look it up.SHould get going, I will check in some more.
Paul
We are now in Bolzano, in the Alps.
St, Mark's Plaza, the main square, is astoundingly beautiful. The cathedral is based on the Eastern Orthadox plan for churches. Venice traded with the Byzantine Empire, and got the idea there. The Plaza is stampeded with tourists, and with expensive stores: expensive ties, shirts, purses, jewelry, masks, watches, the Disney store... BASTA!! I wandered through the cathedral quickly, and was totally impressed. Other than that, we stayed out of tourist areas as much as possible.
The backstreets of Venice are full of surprises. There are 60,000 people here (and more than a million tourists each year, most of them in the summer it appears). Still, this is more work a day Italy than you would think. We enjoyed walking through neighborhoods, and discovered co-op groceries, communal pharmacies, and plazas where people gather. Amazingly enough, we also stumbled on an office for the Italian Communist party. The corner of the building where this is housed includes an altar to Jesus with fresh flowers. I could speculate, but won't unless I get more information.
The Jewish ghetto is a fascinating place to visit. There are bakeries, kosher restaurants, places where you can get mennorahs and other religious/cultural objects. You can also see the area where people were gathered in 1943 and 44 to be sent to the German camps. There are some gutwrenching depictions of this. The ghetto was created in the 1400s, and Jews were not allowed to leave between dusk and morning. Napolean, of app people knocked the gates down when he occupied Rome. Today was a light hearted day, we watched a group of neighborhood kids throwing water balloons at each other.
We also stumbled on the Museum of Everything, a roving museum, based in London and Moscow that highlights work by unknown artists. The current exhibit features work by an Italian artist who was tricked into fighting on Franco's side in the Spanish Civil War. He came back with a condition we would now call PTSD, and became an artist, showing the things he experienced very creatively. His work resembles old cave paintings, but a close look reveals strong impacts.
The International Art Exhibit is going on, countries and artistic movements have pavillions displaying art from their cultures. The Mexican pavillion has a strange device that changes electromagnetic energy in the surroundings to music. Rumanian Pavillion offers a funny online quiz that tests how you respond to reality shows, artificial meat, computer games and other types of fake culture. The Chinese artist Ai Wei Wei designed some representation of his life, in prison with total round the clock surveillance. Our favorite exhibit was called ReEnvisioning Utopia, and it encouriages artists to try bring a sense od creativity and imagination to daily discourse and reality.
Very nice pizza last night, and yes, Italian wine is all its cracked up to be. Venice is beautiful, but there is a sadness from the crowds and their impact on the communities here. Also, there are many men, apparently middle Eastern imigrants who spend their days selling this weird silly putty mexture and glow sticks toy helicopters. How would somens life turn out that way?
So now we are in Bolzano, in the Alps. The train ride from Venice was astounding. We are surrounded by mountains. This area apparently part of Austria fir a while, but is now oart of Italy. I do not know the history but will look it up.SHould get going, I will check in some more.
Paul
We are now in Bolzano, in the Alps.
Tuesday, June 25, 2013
Have to be quick
The computer in our B&B in Venice is broken, and internet cafes are expensive, so this will be quick. Venice, is romantic, beautiful, blissfully free of cars, full of surprises, full of tourists and expensive shops. The main square, St. Marks, is spectacular and stampeded with tourists. We have spent most of our time on back streets, discovered some very interesting art exhibits. It is interesting, this is a tourist town but also has quite a bit of work a day Italy. I will provide details later, the rate for this computer is rising rapidly. Definetly come here, but be willing to explore back streets, you will find some wonderful surprises.
I wanted to mention that at the concert in Florence in the town square, the night of the Marathon, there was a symphony orchestra that suddenly broke into ... the theme from "The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly". I am not kidding.
We are ready for the mountains, Alps tomorrow! I will write from there when I find a computer. We will be in the town of Balzano. Ciao.
I wanted to mention that at the concert in Florence in the town square, the night of the Marathon, there was a symphony orchestra that suddenly broke into ... the theme from "The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly". I am not kidding.
We are ready for the mountains, Alps tomorrow! I will write from there when I find a computer. We will be in the town of Balzano. Ciao.
Sunday, June 23, 2013
Heart of the Renaissance
People lived in the Florence region in Rman times, Mars was their protector. Christian travelers from Greece arrived here around 200.After that, John the Baptist became the patron saint - they like strong protectors! They are celebrating John the Baptist.s feast day. YLast night, we found the Florence Marathon. Hundreds of runners sped through town. Wwe stood on a bridge over the river Arno at sunset. A band was playing as the runners streamed by towards the finish line. The super moon shone over the River Arno, and a planet shone over the western part of the river, above the sunset and mountains. I really have to work on getting a description of this moment, where everything in the world seemed present.
This town is astounding. We wandered today, through a Jewish neighborhood where the synagogue still hs bayonet marks from Fascist days. We walked into a basilica where we found the tombs of Michelangelo, Dante and Galileo - òMachiavelli is around too, but we didn not find him. We wandered the Hills above town- unbelievable views of Florence, its Towers, domes, and very old houses following the river banks. I will work on a better description, and will get some pix up. We thought about Museums, but the lines were ridiculous. You see plenty of Renaissance art wandering about (including the city itself.)
Florence began as a textile manufacturing center, and gradually became affluent during the late middle ages after surviving the plague. The Medicci family (pardon me if my spelling is off, I am hurrying) becan as a proletariate clan, but got rich as bankers. Florence was in throry a republic, but the Mediccis were in charge of purse strings and got their way. They were big partons of the arts and sciences. Savonarello (sp?) got power briefly, and would hold Bonfires of the Vanities on the main plaza. He encouraged the penitent to bring their artwork and books to burn - the vanity of the heart and intellect, I guess. The Renaissance continued after he lost power and the Mediccis returned to power.
We want to come back here, there is much to explore. On to Venice Tomorrow... I will check in from there.
This town is astounding. We wandered today, through a Jewish neighborhood where the synagogue still hs bayonet marks from Fascist days. We walked into a basilica where we found the tombs of Michelangelo, Dante and Galileo - òMachiavelli is around too, but we didn not find him. We wandered the Hills above town- unbelievable views of Florence, its Towers, domes, and very old houses following the river banks. I will work on a better description, and will get some pix up. We thought about Museums, but the lines were ridiculous. You see plenty of Renaissance art wandering about (including the city itself.)
Florence began as a textile manufacturing center, and gradually became affluent during the late middle ages after surviving the plague. The Medicci family (pardon me if my spelling is off, I am hurrying) becan as a proletariate clan, but got rich as bankers. Florence was in throry a republic, but the Mediccis were in charge of purse strings and got their way. They were big partons of the arts and sciences. Savonarello (sp?) got power briefly, and would hold Bonfires of the Vanities on the main plaza. He encouraged the penitent to bring their artwork and books to burn - the vanity of the heart and intellect, I guess. The Renaissance continued after he lost power and the Mediccis returned to power.
We want to come back here, there is much to explore. On to Venice Tomorrow... I will check in from there.
Saturday, June 22, 2013
Firenze!
First of all, as we were leaving Rome today a huge march came by Termini (the transit hum). I have no idea of what it was, it may have been public workers. I'll see what we can find out.
Train ride to Florence (Firenze) was beautiful - farms, forestsw, mountains, ricers: Tuscany. Florence itself is really beautiful. It is cooler, and while it.s crowded, it feels less frantic than Rome. This is the home of the Renaissance, and there is art everywhere. We found a fabulous collection of sculpture in a public spot today. The main catherdal is huge Beyond belief. Its outside walls boast many panels with frescoes, the interior of the dome also has elaborate paintings, although we could not get close enough to look. We visited another Church that has existed since the 8th century. It has served as a combination Church/market/ grainery, although mainly a Church in recent centuries. There are statues of the leaders of old time guilds on its outside wall, - bankers, traders, etc. The river and its bridges are beautiful - one bridge has houses where people live.
My Renaissance history is coming back to me a bit. I need to read more. I believe Florence was considered decadent by the very religious. A monk named Savoranelo seized power and established a strict theocracy during the Renaissance. He was overthrown (and burnt at the stake.) After his fall, Machiavelli and Others worked for a republic, but people welcomed the Medicis back into power.. not a democratic move. I have read that this is one of the factors that led to Machiavelli's cynicism and focus on how a strong leader can keep power.
We have more exploring to do Tomorrow, and I will try to do some research. happy Saturday, happy Solstice, and watch for the super moon tonight. Ciao.
Train ride to Florence (Firenze) was beautiful - farms, forestsw, mountains, ricers: Tuscany. Florence itself is really beautiful. It is cooler, and while it.s crowded, it feels less frantic than Rome. This is the home of the Renaissance, and there is art everywhere. We found a fabulous collection of sculpture in a public spot today. The main catherdal is huge Beyond belief. Its outside walls boast many panels with frescoes, the interior of the dome also has elaborate paintings, although we could not get close enough to look. We visited another Church that has existed since the 8th century. It has served as a combination Church/market/ grainery, although mainly a Church in recent centuries. There are statues of the leaders of old time guilds on its outside wall, - bankers, traders, etc. The river and its bridges are beautiful - one bridge has houses where people live.
My Renaissance history is coming back to me a bit. I need to read more. I believe Florence was considered decadent by the very religious. A monk named Savoranelo seized power and established a strict theocracy during the Renaissance. He was overthrown (and burnt at the stake.) After his fall, Machiavelli and Others worked for a republic, but people welcomed the Medicis back into power.. not a democratic move. I have read that this is one of the factors that led to Machiavelli's cynicism and focus on how a strong leader can keep power.
We have more exploring to do Tomorrow, and I will try to do some research. happy Saturday, happy Solstice, and watch for the super moon tonight. Ciao.
Friday, June 21, 2013
How do I describe today?
I have to try to be brief, and to describe as much as I can of an overwhelming day. This may come as a series of disconnected images, but I will have to write more details as I have time.
Today in Rome
It is hot, crowded, way too much traffic. Tourists around the coliseum as if they are attacking it. Guys in gladiator costumes, one approaches me in a a friendly but aggressive way, trying to have our pic taken. I know from reading he will ask for a lot of money and beg off, he shrugs. Coliseum is awesome, we peak in but do not pay admission, too many tourists. Same with the Forum, but there is a point where you can see the whole scene... astonishingly beautiful. Walked up to the Capital Hill, where we could look out over the city... more domed churches and monuments than I can describe, and tourists. Astonishing view. I gather this was a center of Roman power which fell into disrepair after the Empire collapsed, then was restored by a Renaissance pope, and more so after Italian unification in the late 1800s. Mussolini had a hand in this, too,
Wandering through the area... plazas that have fountains with complex statues, winding alleys of all colors - some dating to Middle Ages. Pantheon: built as a temple to all Roman gods around 20 BC, restored as a Christian church around 700, and it is still a church. Domed structure supported by pillars, some original, Opening at top of the dome lets sunlight in, and it acts as a solar clock.
Passed through neighborhoods famous for being in "La Dolce Via" and "The Bicycle Thief". Feeling exhausted by 4, made our way to the Tiber River, and walked on a hiking path that passed ruins of an ancient port. There are weird ducks in this river that turn backwards and let the current carry them downstream, I have never seen a bird do that. Excellent dinner of ricotta and spinach ravioli in an egg and nutmeg sauce. Now we are home, hot, tired, and astounded.
Rome is fantastic, but Rick Steves (the budget travel guy) mentions that first time visitors sometimes find two days to be enough. This seems to be true for us. We do hope to come back for a deeper look one day... but not in summer!!!
Tomorrow we leave for Florence, I will try to check in tomorrow evening.
Today in Rome
It is hot, crowded, way too much traffic. Tourists around the coliseum as if they are attacking it. Guys in gladiator costumes, one approaches me in a a friendly but aggressive way, trying to have our pic taken. I know from reading he will ask for a lot of money and beg off, he shrugs. Coliseum is awesome, we peak in but do not pay admission, too many tourists. Same with the Forum, but there is a point where you can see the whole scene... astonishingly beautiful. Walked up to the Capital Hill, where we could look out over the city... more domed churches and monuments than I can describe, and tourists. Astonishing view. I gather this was a center of Roman power which fell into disrepair after the Empire collapsed, then was restored by a Renaissance pope, and more so after Italian unification in the late 1800s. Mussolini had a hand in this, too,
Wandering through the area... plazas that have fountains with complex statues, winding alleys of all colors - some dating to Middle Ages. Pantheon: built as a temple to all Roman gods around 20 BC, restored as a Christian church around 700, and it is still a church. Domed structure supported by pillars, some original, Opening at top of the dome lets sunlight in, and it acts as a solar clock.
Passed through neighborhoods famous for being in "La Dolce Via" and "The Bicycle Thief". Feeling exhausted by 4, made our way to the Tiber River, and walked on a hiking path that passed ruins of an ancient port. There are weird ducks in this river that turn backwards and let the current carry them downstream, I have never seen a bird do that. Excellent dinner of ricotta and spinach ravioli in an egg and nutmeg sauce. Now we are home, hot, tired, and astounded.
Rome is fantastic, but Rick Steves (the budget travel guy) mentions that first time visitors sometimes find two days to be enough. This seems to be true for us. We do hope to come back for a deeper look one day... but not in summer!!!
Tomorrow we leave for Florence, I will try to check in tomorrow evening.
Roma!!
We are fine, all - Gmail blocked our access from Italy for a day, hopefully I have cleared that up. Rome is energetic, passionate, fascinating, crowded and HOT!!! It was in the 90s yesterday, and probably will be today. Rick Steves says 2 days of Rome is great for your first visit - that is what we get on this trip. It is chaotic, but quite interesting.
Yesteray we visited the Vatican Museums. Astonishing. Whatever your beliefs and feelings, these places are a must see. The collection of ancient Roman art alone makes this visit worthwhile. Some of the huge murals and tapestries of Biblical stories and Church history are amazing. I am struck by the color and detail, the enourmous number of people, definetly individuals in each painting. The energy depicted is amazing. I am no art historian, but this reminded me of some of the detailed paintings we once saw in Nepal and Japan. It seems to me that the Renaissance masters knew about Asian art, but I do need to check on this. I know there was a big emphasis on humanism, presenting each person as an individual and focusing on human interactions.
The Sistine Chapel is overwhelming!! Again, this is a MUST SEE when you are in Rome. My dad, who was an art and history enthusiast but not a believer, always told me I had to see it, and I felt like he was with us. It is a fascinating depiction of the Catholic world view circa 1500. The famous panels of the creation of the world, the creation of Adam, and the expulsion from the Garden are at the center of the vaulted ceiling. Other parts of the chapel have biblical scenes, and there are portraits of popes. Michelangelo was comissioned to paint this during the Reformation as a statement of papal authority, opposing Martin Luther's ideas. There is one scene where Moses and Aaron are confronting rebelluous Israelites, and Aaron is wearing a papal miter (tall hat), meaning that papal authority has existed since ancient times. There is n altar at the front of the chapal; behind that, there is a huge and practically surreal mural showing the Final Judgement. The colors and energy are astonishing... again, see it, whatever your beliefs.
Pissa is fabulous in Rome. The crust is thin and delicate, and the sauce is different from in the States, although I can't really explain how. The gelato is also fabulous - I don't really know which flavors we had, but they were wonderful. We'll have more. And yes, people here are as dramatic as you'd think!
Today we do the Caesar Shuffle - Coliseum and other old ruins. Tomorrow we are off to Florence, I will check in from there in the evenng if Gmail doesn't block me. Ciao!
Yesteray we visited the Vatican Museums. Astonishing. Whatever your beliefs and feelings, these places are a must see. The collection of ancient Roman art alone makes this visit worthwhile. Some of the huge murals and tapestries of Biblical stories and Church history are amazing. I am struck by the color and detail, the enourmous number of people, definetly individuals in each painting. The energy depicted is amazing. I am no art historian, but this reminded me of some of the detailed paintings we once saw in Nepal and Japan. It seems to me that the Renaissance masters knew about Asian art, but I do need to check on this. I know there was a big emphasis on humanism, presenting each person as an individual and focusing on human interactions.
The Sistine Chapel is overwhelming!! Again, this is a MUST SEE when you are in Rome. My dad, who was an art and history enthusiast but not a believer, always told me I had to see it, and I felt like he was with us. It is a fascinating depiction of the Catholic world view circa 1500. The famous panels of the creation of the world, the creation of Adam, and the expulsion from the Garden are at the center of the vaulted ceiling. Other parts of the chapel have biblical scenes, and there are portraits of popes. Michelangelo was comissioned to paint this during the Reformation as a statement of papal authority, opposing Martin Luther's ideas. There is one scene where Moses and Aaron are confronting rebelluous Israelites, and Aaron is wearing a papal miter (tall hat), meaning that papal authority has existed since ancient times. There is n altar at the front of the chapal; behind that, there is a huge and practically surreal mural showing the Final Judgement. The colors and energy are astonishing... again, see it, whatever your beliefs.
Pissa is fabulous in Rome. The crust is thin and delicate, and the sauce is different from in the States, although I can't really explain how. The gelato is also fabulous - I don't really know which flavors we had, but they were wonderful. We'll have more. And yes, people here are as dramatic as you'd think!
Today we do the Caesar Shuffle - Coliseum and other old ruins. Tomorrow we are off to Florence, I will check in from there in the evenng if Gmail doesn't block me. Ciao!
Tuesday, June 18, 2013
Fill for me the parting glass
Old Clancy Brother's song. We're off to Rome tomorrow. Ireland, we'll surely miss ye, but plan seriously to come back. It feels like we've been here for months...
Things have been phenomenal since last post. We found a wonderful hiking trail along the river in Sligo yesterday evening, wandered through wetlands towards the mountains. Astonishing. It was like a hike into a wonderland... amazing that tourist office didn't seem to know about it. It is also a biketrail that we plan to follow one fine day.
Today we visited Lough (Lake) Glen Car, and Glen Car Falls. We hiked with an outdoor group, very knowledgeable folks. The lake is in a glaciated valley. The glacier supported the limestone mountains for many years; when the glacier retreated, some of the mountains collapsed, leaving peaks with very unusual shapes. Many are wildly angular, high green peaks rising above forested slopes. One resembled the Rock of Gibralter. Amazing place. We hiked high into the mountains, to a boggy area where we saw several skylarks hovering and singing above the mountains. The higher country was boggy. Farmers have always dug up peat, which they dry and burn for warmth. Some are now using heavy equipment which is causing ecological damage to the bogs.
Ireland is not a heavily forested island, although it's said that once forests were so thick a squirrel could cross Ireland without leaving the trees. Our guide told us the British cut down many trees for shipbuilding. Spagnum moss, which soaks up lots of water, caused the demise of many others. Forests that are here have been planted for timber; there have been efforts to reforest Ireland; this move is gaining much support. The government is talking about selling some forests to Swedish logging companies, but this is meeting lots of disagreement.
Our guide also showed us a spot where he once discovered a hideout four IRA militants once used. This was after the partition of Ireland (1920s I believe). Part of the nationalist movement thought that a settlement where England kept the northern counties was the best they could get. This actually led to a civil war between this faction and those who thought the North should also be independant of England. A rebellous priest, who also supported the more militant faction also hid in this area for a while. An old woman would bring him food once a week, and he would hear her confession. I do need to get more details on Irish history.
Glen Car Falls is astoundingly beautiful, very tall and very misty. Yeats described it as an entrance to the faerie world; again, much of his writing was based in local mythology. Yes, I know I keep talking about Yeats, but you can't turn a corner here without finding a reference to him. I love that... a culture that honors its poets.
We rode back to Sligo in a taxi. The driver gave us some sobering information. Ireland is reeling from the recession, with a current unemployment rate of 14%. The health care system is hurting, and people are finding that their houses are worth far less than they paid. They don't expect a recovery for 30 years or so, and their economic fate is very tied to the rest of the European Union's.
Life here is not easy, and the history is bitter. But - we love Ireland, I hope I have given you ideas about why. On to Rome. Tomorrow is a travel day, I will try to post again on Thursday.
Things have been phenomenal since last post. We found a wonderful hiking trail along the river in Sligo yesterday evening, wandered through wetlands towards the mountains. Astonishing. It was like a hike into a wonderland... amazing that tourist office didn't seem to know about it. It is also a biketrail that we plan to follow one fine day.
Today we visited Lough (Lake) Glen Car, and Glen Car Falls. We hiked with an outdoor group, very knowledgeable folks. The lake is in a glaciated valley. The glacier supported the limestone mountains for many years; when the glacier retreated, some of the mountains collapsed, leaving peaks with very unusual shapes. Many are wildly angular, high green peaks rising above forested slopes. One resembled the Rock of Gibralter. Amazing place. We hiked high into the mountains, to a boggy area where we saw several skylarks hovering and singing above the mountains. The higher country was boggy. Farmers have always dug up peat, which they dry and burn for warmth. Some are now using heavy equipment which is causing ecological damage to the bogs.
Ireland is not a heavily forested island, although it's said that once forests were so thick a squirrel could cross Ireland without leaving the trees. Our guide told us the British cut down many trees for shipbuilding. Spagnum moss, which soaks up lots of water, caused the demise of many others. Forests that are here have been planted for timber; there have been efforts to reforest Ireland; this move is gaining much support. The government is talking about selling some forests to Swedish logging companies, but this is meeting lots of disagreement.
Our guide also showed us a spot where he once discovered a hideout four IRA militants once used. This was after the partition of Ireland (1920s I believe). Part of the nationalist movement thought that a settlement where England kept the northern counties was the best they could get. This actually led to a civil war between this faction and those who thought the North should also be independant of England. A rebellous priest, who also supported the more militant faction also hid in this area for a while. An old woman would bring him food once a week, and he would hear her confession. I do need to get more details on Irish history.
Glen Car Falls is astoundingly beautiful, very tall and very misty. Yeats described it as an entrance to the faerie world; again, much of his writing was based in local mythology. Yes, I know I keep talking about Yeats, but you can't turn a corner here without finding a reference to him. I love that... a culture that honors its poets.
We rode back to Sligo in a taxi. The driver gave us some sobering information. Ireland is reeling from the recession, with a current unemployment rate of 14%. The health care system is hurting, and people are finding that their houses are worth far less than they paid. They don't expect a recovery for 30 years or so, and their economic fate is very tied to the rest of the European Union's.
Life here is not easy, and the history is bitter. But - we love Ireland, I hope I have given you ideas about why. On to Rome. Tomorrow is a travel day, I will try to post again on Thursday.
Monday, June 17, 2013
Sligo and surroundings
One frustrating thing about Ireland is bus transit is surprisingly lacking, and it is hard to get to outlying areas without a car. We really don't want to rent one... people drive on the wrong side of the road here, and somewhat erratically. We enjoyed biking around Westport, and thought about it here, but we would be on busy roads... again, with folks driving on the wrong side. But we are going to take a guided hike in a more remote place yesterday, looking forward to it.
Today we took a nice hike along the coast. The beaches and mountains here are really wonderful. There is one huge mountain where the mythical Queen Mauve is supposed to be buried. There is a complex legend about her, I believe it has something to do with her stealing cattle from a friend of the warrior Cuchelaine, leading to a chaotic turn of events. People here have long associated specific places with particular stories. This had a big influence on Yeats' poetry 100 years ago. I need to look more deeply into Irish folklore, and into Yeats' life..he was a true character.
One interesting thing is that today, kind of a whim, we wandered into an Irish genealogy center. The guy there gave me some tips on researching my grandmother Karl's background... she was my mother's mom. We actually know very little about her background, and finding out more is a definite longshot, but I am more curious since I talked with this guy. We think she was brought from Ireland as a young child many years ago.
One more thing, is that today we saw guys playing a game called Hurl on the beach. They were hitting a ball to each other with paddles. Kate asked one of them, "Do you have professional teams?"
"No," he chuckled, matter-of factly, "We don't have the money." That comment reveals a lot of things.
Today we took a nice hike along the coast. The beaches and mountains here are really wonderful. There is one huge mountain where the mythical Queen Mauve is supposed to be buried. There is a complex legend about her, I believe it has something to do with her stealing cattle from a friend of the warrior Cuchelaine, leading to a chaotic turn of events. People here have long associated specific places with particular stories. This had a big influence on Yeats' poetry 100 years ago. I need to look more deeply into Irish folklore, and into Yeats' life..he was a true character.
One interesting thing is that today, kind of a whim, we wandered into an Irish genealogy center. The guy there gave me some tips on researching my grandmother Karl's background... she was my mother's mom. We actually know very little about her background, and finding out more is a definite longshot, but I am more curious since I talked with this guy. We think she was brought from Ireland as a young child many years ago.
One more thing, is that today we saw guys playing a game called Hurl on the beach. They were hitting a ball to each other with paddles. Kate asked one of them, "Do you have professional teams?"
"No," he chuckled, matter-of factly, "We don't have the money." That comment reveals a lot of things.
Sunday, June 16, 2013
Way too much but here we go...
I couldn't get to this site from the Newport computer last night... so much to report. Yesterday we rode bikes along the Great Western Greenway, 38 km from Achille Island to Westport. Amazingly beautiful ride with views of the Atlantic and offshore islands. We looked across a bay to Crough Patrick, a mountain where St. Patrick once fasted for 30 days. There were also grassy fields full of foxgloves, buttercups, rhodadendrums, daisies and many more wildflowers. Sheep were everywhere, baa-ing at us as we rode. We crossed many streams, and saw higher mountains to the east... watch for pix, we'll let you know.
We were lucky enough to be in Westport for the Folk and Bluegrass Festival. We heard two very fine bluegrass bands, one in a hotel and the other in a pub. Irish people love bluegrass... I have heard there are strong connections between traditional Irish music and bluegrass. You can hear it in the melodies, riffs, bittersweet feeling, place based lyrics. I want to do more research on this. And yes, Guinness is better in Ireland!!
Today we are in Sligo, a beautiful small city. This place apparently goes back to the 5th century. It has an amazing history. It was raided and razed in the 1600s by the British; I am guessing this was during Oliver Cromwell's rule, he was cruel to Ireland. It is a very beautiful and artistic town now, surrounded by mountains and lakes, which we will visit. This is William Butler Yeats' territory. We walked by the Yeats center tonight and were invited to an art opening. The featured woman did beautiful paintings of cityscapes with rain. We'll be here a few days, maybe long enough to find "...the silver apples of the moon
and the golden apples of the sun."
Those lines are from "The Song of Wandering Aengus", by Yeats.
We were lucky enough to be in Westport for the Folk and Bluegrass Festival. We heard two very fine bluegrass bands, one in a hotel and the other in a pub. Irish people love bluegrass... I have heard there are strong connections between traditional Irish music and bluegrass. You can hear it in the melodies, riffs, bittersweet feeling, place based lyrics. I want to do more research on this. And yes, Guinness is better in Ireland!!
Today we are in Sligo, a beautiful small city. This place apparently goes back to the 5th century. It has an amazing history. It was raided and razed in the 1600s by the British; I am guessing this was during Oliver Cromwell's rule, he was cruel to Ireland. It is a very beautiful and artistic town now, surrounded by mountains and lakes, which we will visit. This is William Butler Yeats' territory. We walked by the Yeats center tonight and were invited to an art opening. The featured woman did beautiful paintings of cityscapes with rain. We'll be here a few days, maybe long enough to find "...the silver apples of the moon
and the golden apples of the sun."
Those lines are from "The Song of Wandering Aengus", by Yeats.
Friday, June 14, 2013
Irish Rain
Westboro is a colorful town near the coast, and we are told it rains a lot here. Definetly true today! We weren't sure if we would find much to do today, but we stopped by a local bike shop to make reservations for a long ride we want to do tomorrow. The owner was a friendly bloke, and we asked what we could do here in the rain. He offered to loan us bikes today so we could do a fairly short ride to a historical house in the countryside. Interesting place, it was built by descendants of the Pirate Queen, Grace O' Malley. She was the 16th century daughter of a chieftan, and a good enough sailor that she was able to be a powerful force on the west coast of Ireland. She also fought the British, and managed to negotiate with Queen Elizabeth without winding up in the Tower. Most of her descendants, the Brownes, supported rebellions in the 18th and 19th centuries, although one black sheep supported the British. I want to read more of the history soon. Ireland is great, but struggling with economic conditions. 600,000 people have left since 2006. We were last here that year, and there was an economic boom, but everyone we talked to said it wouldn't last. Still, I am amazed by the good humor and generosity of the people here, considering what they have gone through and are going through. Stay tuned, more to come.
Thursday, June 13, 2013
Here we go again...
Many folks know we are in Europe for the next few weeks. In case you don't, this will be a quick post from Galway, Ireland. This is a beauutiful and very interesting city. It is somewhat touristy - there are ruins that go back to the 11th century; one old wall has a shopping center built around it with no word of explaination of the history. Lots of shops, bistros, etc. But much beneath the surface. Many old buildings, real sense of history. A lovely river and several canals pass through town. I would like to do a birding walk; so far, we have figured out black headed gulls, swans, swallows; there are many others, including some lovely singers. The canal walks are dominated by a huge, green domed cathedral. Last night we heard a string orchestra from Michigan that played Irish jigs, a spiritual, Ramones type rock and roll, jazz, etc. Amazing! I am quickly in love with Ireland after a day here, we are pretty sure my grandmother Karl came from here (her life is something of a mystery). Part of me says "I wanna come home!" We'd be reasonably close to Germany, my other country of origin. But there are more than a few dark sides. I picked up a book of Irish history, which I know is bitter today, and Kate got one on the impact of the recession and austerity on Ireland. You will see references. I can see spending extended time in Galway someday; I have to stop because we need to catch a bus up the coast to West Port soon. Much more to come!
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