Nagarkot

First, a quick clarification. I got really excited in the temples the other day. I studied Hinduism and Buddhism seriously in college and have read about them since then. I respect many (but not all!) aspects of both without considering myself a follower of either. It was exciting to see things I've read about, and I love historical and archaeological sites.


The Kumari issue, which Kate mentioned is troubling, to put it mildly. Our guides assumed we wanted to see this "Living Goddess" and took us into her space without asking if we were
interested. Both of us kept our mouths shut while thinking that no child should be treated this way. How far should we go with cultural sensitivity?


Anyhow, Nagarkot, in the highlands near Kathmandu was unbelievable. It is a quiet and very interesting agricultural town. We had a hotel where we could see the Himmalayas from our room's window! I was really astounded and shaken at first sight. My father used to tell me I really had to see them someday, and there I was.


How to describe them? Immense and I mean IMMENSE mountains, shaped like pyramids,
cones, rugged rock constructions covered with snow. They were easily 50 miles away
but they dominated our view of the valley that separated us from them. We were at about 6700
feet above sea level, but these mountains were so much higher than we were that the whole idea of size stopped meaning anything. It was cloudy both days we were there, so the mountains would vanish then reappear. The really astounding sight was the mountains at dawn, when they emerged from darkness and the snow turned rose colored.

The highlands around us were huge rolling hills. This is a farming area, and large parts of the hills are terraced with farmhouses nearby. Farmers grow a lot of wheat there.There were all patches of trees on the hillsides as well. We were both amazed to find butterflies and wildflowers near us; I would not have dreamed it was the season for them.

Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) is pretty far from where we were, but somebody pointed in its direction and I am sure I picked it out. Another goal achieved.

These descriptions are not doing the area justice. We will post pictures when we find a computer
where we can download them. We'll do that at home if not before. Yes, I've written poems, I'll pass them on to folks who are interested.

The really interesting thing about Nagarkot is there was a strike by hotel workers about a month ago. The government supported the strikers and arranged for buses to take tourists back to Kathmandu until it was all over. The workers did win a wage increase. Things were so mellow when we were there you wouldn't have guessed this major struggle took place there recently.

It is hard being back in Kathmandu - after the mountains it seems more chaotic to me than before. We leave for Pokara near the Annapurna Range tomorrow morning, I think we'll have Internet access there. I'll keep you posted.
Namaste, PG